TOP RIDES: Malargüe to Valle Hermoso, Argentina
For Andes adventure riding, out of season ski resorts are one of Argentina's best kept secrets.
This relatively short, but dramatic route provides the full spectrum of adventure riding experience. Starting with a ribbon of smooth curvy highway that snakes up into the mountains, followed by a fairly easy gravel trail that takes you to the other worldly location of the high Andes, this route has it all.
Route Details
Distance: 106km
Surface: Paved and Gravel
Fuel: Malargüe, Las Leñas
Ridden: February 2024
1. Malargüe to Las Leñas - 78km
The route starts in the town of Malargüe, which is about 370km south of Mendoza on Ruta 40. The town itself isn't massive in the grand scheme of things, but with a population of around 27,000, has plenty of hotels and other services to kick off your journey. There's a large YPF petrol station in town, which is the best place to fill up for the trip. Although the headline distance for this journey is low, when it comes to fuel, you'll need to double it to allow for there and back. While there is a small petrol station in Las Leñas, it doesn't always have fuel (particularly in the summer off-season) and when it does, it can be expensive.
Heading north out of Malargüe, the route follows Ruta 40 for a short 30km on good quality tarmac to the junction with Ruta 222. You then peel off west to commence the climb to the ski resort of Las Leñas. Being one of Argentina's premiere winter sports resorts affords Las Leñas with good infrastructure, so Ruta 222 comes with top-quality paving. After an initial flat stretch, the road soon starts to climb through some fun curves, hinting at the altitude to come. With Las Leñas in summer hiatus, traffic on the route is typically very light so you can make the most of the road.
The first stop on the route is at the mirador (viewpoint) for the Rio Salado canyon. Whilst the river isn't the grandest you'll come across, the impressive sight comes in the form of an immense and relatively recent lava flow, providing a humbling display of the power of nature. Continuing on, Ruta 222 drops you down into the valley proper and hugs the Rio Salado for another 10km or so to the next stop, Laguna de la Niña Encantada. The 'Enchanted Girl' lagoon is a picturesque lake, which makes for a nice photo stop. To access, you need to leave the bike in the carpark next to the Rio Salado, then cross the Puente de Elcha pedestrian bridge for a short 300m walk to the lake itself. It is possible to drive to the lake, but the long way round takes you 23km out of your way.
Back on the road, the valley opens up as Ruta 222 takes you to the next stop, Pozo de Las Ánimas, or in English something that sounds like it's straight out of an Indiana Jones story, The Well of Souls. This site comprises a pair of impressive sinkholes that look more like giant meteor impacts and gets its name from a legend about a local tribe being saved when pursuing enemies were consumed by the ground. From here, the road continues through the valley for another 6km or so before swinging north and gaining some elevation into a genuinely impressive valley surrounded by towering mountains. Take a moment to savour the views. It's then not far up that the road veers left and you find yourself arriving in Las Leñas. Las Leñas is arguably Argentina's premier ski resort, but in summer it's a sleepy hamlet. Most of the facilities are closed although a small number of the hotels and apartment buildings welcome offseason guests (particularly Hotel Piscis and the Cirrus Apartments). Most of the restaurants are also closed for the season, although food was served at El Parador and Hotel Piscis when I visited. There is a small supermarket in town, but this is woefully stocked in summer, so if you're planning on self-catering, you'll need to pick up your supplies in Malargüe before heading up. But despite the offseason vibes, Las Leñas in summer is still a pleasant place to spend a couple of days.
2. Las Leñas to Valle Hermoso - 26km*
It may only be 26km, but the state of the road and the number of stops you'll make to admire the views means you should allow at least two hours for this section. It's also worth checking the weather forecast before heading off, as the route is quite exposed and probably won't be as fun when the weather isn't playing ball.
Out of Las Leñas, Ruta 222 continues north for a small stretch, but it's not long before the pavement starts to deteriorate before giving up entirely. It's now gravel all the way to Valle Hermoso. The surface is in pretty good overall condition, good enough to allow two-wheel drive cars to make the journey, but there are a number of small stream crossings which come with some uneven terrain. The road is perfectly fine for large adventure bikes, but it's probably not one you should be popping your cherry on if it's your first experience with gravel. Watch out for the occasional car, particularly on blind corners, and you may also come across a horse-riding tour or two.
After an initially gentle rise, the road does take you up some steeper curves on the way to a its max altitude around 2,900m. Again, nothing too serious, but enough to keep you on your toes. The reward, however, is the views, which get more stunning as you climb higher. The road itself remains in pretty good overall condition all the way to a small carpark at for the mirador overlooking the Hermoso Valley. It's worth a stop to take in the view.
From the mirador, a series of 18 hairpins take you down to the valley floor. The surface remains in pretty good condition, particularly given the altitude and remoteness, but it goes without saying that you should take it easy. The destination for the ride is the shores of the stunning Laguna Valle Hermoso, where you'll find a hosteria serving food and most of the other travellers who've braved the route, regardless of what mode of transport they chose. There are also a small number of eco-cabins and camping spots available on the lakeside, so it's possible to stay overnight. However, these aren't free (enquire at the hosteria). A rougher side track nearby will take you to a couple of pretty lakes and a small area of ancient petroglyphs.
From here, Ruta 222 does continue uphill for another 5kms or so before petering out. If you've got time, riding a little further beyond the lake will get you to some small waterfalls and even more remote views. Either way, ultimately from here the only option is to turn around and head back to Las Leñas. But a second helping of these views make for a pretty good consolation prize.
* The distance is for the one-way journey, but it's a dead end, so double it for planning purposes
Route Map & GPX
Waypoints: Download GPX