Planning a Chile Motorcycle Adventure
With a hefty monopoly on South America’s west coast, Chile offers an almost unrivalled diversity of landscapes for your adventuring pleasure. From the otherworldly sights and elevation of the Atacama Desert, to the dramatic coastal roads and the lush environs of the lake district, and the wilds of western Patagonia, the country isn’t short of surprises.
Getting there / Getting a Bike
Unless you’re already on a South American adventure, the entry point for most travellers will be Santiago, Chile’s thriving capital. Other major cities in Chile do have international airports, but arriving from outside of South America will mean it's likely you'll need to enter via Santiago. On the plus side, the capital is roughly in the centre of the country (on the north to south axis) so makes for a good starting point for adventures in almost any direction.
As with all international moto adventures, when it comes to getting a bike you have four options: buy, hire, join a tour, or BYO. For those considering the 'buy' option, Chile probably represents the best country in the region to do this in terms of availability of bikes and being able to register it as a foreigner. However, to do it you really need to be able to speak Spanish or at least have local contacts who can help. You'll also need an address in Chile for the paperwork. One additional consideration on the buying front is what your plans are for the rest of South America. Having a Chilean-registered bike while travelling on a foreign passport has been known to cause issues with some border crossings (e.g. Bolivia).
For shorter visits, rental or joining a tour are probably your best options. Both take care of the sourcing and ownership hassles. Whether you rent or join an organised tour is mainly down to your travel preferences. Rental will likely be a little cheaper, as you’re not having to pay the tour company’s overheads. But that does come at the expense of freedom. Tour companies also offer rent-only options, which gives you the opportunity to go your own way, although one-way rentals will cost more and you'll need to start and finish in Chile. Some operators also provide self-guided tours - they give you the bike and the route, but you ride to your own timescales (within set limits).
The BYO option is most suitable for longer trips. Depending on where you're based and how you ship your bike, the breakeven point compared to renting probably sits at a trip length of at least two months. Getting your bike to Chile can be done by air or sea. For air, bikes are sent as cargo to Santiago International Airport; via sea, it will arrive at Valparaíso, Chile’s main commercial port which is about 120km west of Santiago.
The choice between air and sea will partly be driven by cost, but you may find that after various landing fees, there isn’t much in the price difference. For some strange reason, local charges seem to be higher in South American ports than they are in airports. The other key consideration in the air vs sea decision is how much of a guaranteed arrival time you require. Air freight will be able to give you a specific arrival date, which is unlikely to change (at least by no more than a day or two worst case). Sea freight on the other hand can be subject to significant delays, sometimes measured in weeks.
Regardless of air or sea, it's worth noting that Chile is one of the more expensive entry points for South America. If your trip plan permits it, it may be cheaper to ship to Argentina or Peru. Both options are certainly worth investigating.
Money
Be prepared for the fact that Chile is expensive. Not Scandinavia expensive, but by South American measures, pretty much so. Prices for most of the travel essentials – food, accommodation, petrol – are at similar levels to what you’d find in the cheaper parts of Western Europe. So while there are certainly other places you can go which will be harder on your wallet, Chile can be a bit of a shock - particularly if you’ve come from neighbouring countries like Bolivia or Peru.
The official currency of Chile is the Chilean Peso. Thanks to some of the better governance levels found in South America, plus a robust mining industry, the Chilean Peso has been reasonably stable for some time now. Historical inflation has left denominations quite high, but unlike neighbouring Argentina, where super inflation combined with 1000 pesos being the largest note results in a literal wad of cash, Chile has notes for all occasions. The only lingering effect of previous bouts of inflation is the limited usefulness of the various peso coins.
Chilean Peso notes come in a variety of denominations and use the same polymer materials found in banknotes from places like Australia and Canada. ATMs are plentiful across all but the smallest towns, so getting access to cash is no problem in theory. However using a foreign card entails bracing yourself for some of the highest withdrawal fees you’ll see anywhere. This is irrespective of any fees your own bank may charge you for foreign cash withdrawals. As such, it’s better to plan your cash needs to ensure you’re taking out larger sums to offset the fees or use services like Western Union to send money to yourself. Most Chilean ATMs are also unusual in that they typically have a separate onscreen path for foreign cardholders. Look for specific options which mention ‘international’ or ‘foreign’, as just using the standard withdraw options will likely result in a declined transaction.
Aside from ATMs, international credit cards, such as Visa and Mastercard, are widely accepted across Chile - although as always, less so at very small establishments or in remote areas. Some establishments will add a surcharge when you pay by card, but not all do and where one is added, it's normally fairly small. There can also be occasions where you'll get charged in US dollars rather than pesos, most commonly at upmarket hotels or those from international chains.
For Chile, it’s a good idea to travel with both cash and cards so you have options regardless of where you end up. You’ll also need some low denomination notes (or coins) for use at toll stations, which typically don’t take cards. And as with all travel in South America, it’s also prudent to have a few US Dollars on hand just in case.
Accommodation
Accommodation options are plentiful across most of Chile, although as you’d expect, choices tend to narrow considerably in more remote areas. A large number of hotels in populated or tourist areas can be booked via the usual suspects online, but in general, it’s not necessary to do so ahead unless you’re visiting a major town or want to stay at a specific place. However, some establishments can fill up as evening draws in so it’s best to plan to arrive for mid to late afternoon to increase the chances of getting a bed.
When it comes to Chilean Patagonia, hotels seem to play by a slightly different set of rules compared to the rest of the country. Expect to pay significantly more for considerably less in this part of the country. Bookings are usually necessary, particularly for places along the Carretera Austral (Ruta 7) and in Puerto Natales, the main access point for the Torres de Paine national park.
For those on a budget, camping is also an option. Campsite operators exist in most regions, and wild camping is legal in Chile, although only on public land and outside of populated areas. Camping on private land, as always, requires permission from the landowner.
Roads
Mining money has bought Chile infrastructure that is the envy of most other South American countries. An extensive motorway network has been constructed which would be at home anywhere in Europe and is probably better quality than many highways in the US. A large number of backcountry roads have also been paved to an excellent standard in recent years, so it's not unusual to find yourself on pristine tarmac in some pretty remote places.
In Chilean Patagonia and further south, you'll encounter routes which include ferry crossings. Shorter ferries often operate on a regular schedule, so you can just show up and get on. For these, you normally buy tickets onboard. Longer ferries will require bookings, which can usually be done online. In both cases, it's best to research your route ahead of time so you can plan your ferries accordingly.
The South American love affair with speed bumps is also in full swing in Chile, but unlike in most other places, they tend to be clearly signposted and reasonably well-engineered. Normally painted yellow, expect to encounter them when entering or exiting towns.
Tolls
Although mining money has helped build a fantastic road network, it doesn’t cover all the costs. As a result, most of the major motorways in Chile are toll roads. And unlike neighbouring countries, in Chile motorcycles must also pay tolls. The rates may be pretty low (around USD $1), but it’s still a hassle as you normally need to take at least one glove off to pay. Toll booths are almost always cash only, so it’s a good idea to keep a couple of thousand pesos in small notes/coins in your tank bag or jacket pocket for days where you find yourself on these roads.
Driving Behaviour
The driving skills on display in Chile are on par with those of nearby countries. With space to spare, major roads tend to be wide enough so as not to be particularly dangerous, as long as you’re paying attention. Dodgy overtaking is quite commonplace, particularly by impatient bus and truck drivers on the Pan-American Highway. Chilean city driving is a little more sane than that found in neighbouring countries such as Peru and Bolivia, but city centres suffer from the usual traffic problems.
In more remote areas or on smaller roads, you do need to watch out for corner-cutting by oncoming traffic. Larger vehicles may need to do this to get around a tight bend, but more common is the local who’s just driving too fast for the road conditions and needs to shave the corner to maintain their speed. Keep as far right as possible around blind corners or use the horn liberally if you can’t.
Offroad
Chilean roads may be on the most part, excellent, but there’s still plenty of gravel to content with across the country. The first culprit is roadworks. All that glorious infrastructure needs to be built and/or maintained at some point, and this can mean contending with lengthy gravel sections on some major routes while works are undertaken. These are usually well-marked, but can occasionally arrive with less warning than you’d like. For lengthier sections, orange desvío (detour) signs will point you in the right direction.
Aside from roadworks, you’ll also encounter gravel roads in more remote places. This includes backroads in the Atacama, Chilean Patagonia, and Tierra del Fuego. Some of these thoroughfares are slowly being paved, but this can end abruptly once a section has been completed. Keep an eye out for signs such as fin de pavimento (end of pavement), which can arrive with only slightly more warning than the change of road condition they’re describing. You also need to take extra care on high-altitude roads, as the combination of heavy trucks and weather exposure can result in serious potholes appearing out of nowhere.
Unless super remote, most gravel roads are graded reasonably frequently so, aside from the loose surface and some corrugations, are fairly tame on the gnarly road scale. One common challenge is the little gravel piles tyres of four-wheeled vehicles can make along their tracks, which are of course softer and looser than the rest of the road and a bit of a pain for motorcycles.
In terms of major areas of interest for adventure travellers, expect gravel to access some of the sights in the Andes and around San Pedro de Atacama. Further south, only about half of the Carretera Austral is paved (the northern half), as is the quick way between San Sebastian and Porvenir (Tierra del Fuego). Many of the minor border crossings to Argentina (e.g. Paso Roballo) also register on the stoney side.
Tyres
For adventure travel, it’s normally a good idea to fit tyres with at least some offroad potential – it’s inevitable that there will be at least one gravel road between you and something you want to see. Not to mention temporary road surfaces caused by roadworks. You could probably get by with street tyres, but 50/50s will give you more options. You don't need full offroad tyres unless you're planning to hit some truly remote places.
Cops
The police in Chile are known as Carabineros de Chile or just Carabineros for short. They eschew the traditional blue motif of other police forces, instead taking on a teal green as their colour of choice.
Carabinero stations can be found in towns and they also have checkpoints along major routes. In most cases, you’ll have little to no interaction with them unless you bring it upon yourself. At a checkpoint they'll typically just waive a foreign bike on. Occasionally, they might enquire about your destination. Police corruption levels in Chile are on par with those found in most western countries, so it’s incredibly unlikely that you’ll need to pay your way out of a law enforcement encounter.
In Chile, the carabineros don’t seem to do much in the way of speed checks like you see in rich countries, but there can be fixed speed cameras as you enter or exit towns. Unpaid traffic fines will complicate border crossings.
Maps
Both Garmin and TomTom offer South America maps for their devices which provide decent coverage for Chile. You can also use OSM or Google maps, or other apps which use them, to navigate around. Bear in mind that mobile coverage is typically limited to towns, so whichever mapping approach you take, make sure if supports offline maps. Google Maps is also a good tool for planning.
Petrol
Gasolina (petrol) in Chile is widely available and doesn’t suffer the variable availability (Argentina) or crippling bureaucracy (Bolivia) of neighbouring countries. Various octane ratings are available, with 93 and 95 being the most common, and the quality is excellent. Prices are higher than in the US, but typical of what you’d find in Western Europe.
All but the smallest or most remote communities have petrol stations, either independent or from one of the large operators such as Shell and Petrobras. By far the most common are the stations from COPEC, the state-owned oil company. These are always modern, often have additional facilities such as restaurants and shops, and can be found in cities as well as more out of the way places. Most stations in towns/cities, or those from the big brands, will take card payments. But independent or seriously remote ones may not.
Food
The food options in Chile vary quite dramatically, depending on where you are. In the north, there’s a clear influence of Peruvian cuisine on many restaurant menus. On the road, the Chileans have taken a page out of the Argentinian cookbook, with empanadas on sale everywhere. In the more populated centre and southern areas, almost any type of food you could want is on offer. Sushi in Chile is surprisingly good and you can even actually get decent pizza if you look hard enough.
As with everything else in Chile, food is generally more expensive than in neighbouring countries. Prices in smaller towns and on the road can still be reasonable, and supermarkets of course remain the best option for the budget-conscious traveller. As with accommodation, restaurants in tourist areas can be a step up in terms of expense, but there are usually bargains to be had in any town if you're prepared to look (or ask).
Weather
Chile spans over half the west coast of South America, resulting in three main climate zones. In the north you have the Atacama Desert – the driest place on Earth. This stretches from the heights of the Andes all the way to the coast. During the summer, daytime temperatures at the lower altitudes are fairly pleasant, rarely breaching the 20s (C). At night, it can get reasonably cold, particularly at altitude. Further south the climate becomes more temperate, with cooler temperatures on the coast and hotter ones as you move further inland. Again, higher altitudes have a moderating effect on temperatures.
In Chilean Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, things cool down quite considerably. The former is home to many year-round snowcapped mountains and one of the largest glacier fields left on the planet. On Tierra del Fuego and the other southern islands, you’re about as close to Antarctica as you can be without actually visiting, so even in summer temperatures will be a little on the cool side.
For motorcycle adventures southern hemisphere Spring is one of the best times to travel in Chile. Temperatures will be warm enough, tourist crowds thinner, and nature will be in full bloom. It’s also possible to travel through summer and autumn, but winter should be avoided. In the South, everything will be snowed in, while in the northern desert, even the daytime temperatures will be frigid.
Language
Not speaking Spanish isn’t a barrier to travelling in Chile, although it’s obviously far easier if you do. Armed with a friendly smile and Google Translate (with offline mode) you’ll be able to get by in almost all situations. In bigger cities and touristy towns, you're more likely to come across people who speak at least a little English. But out in the countryside, it's far less common. And as with travel to all countries, taking the time to learn a few basic words will also hold you in good stead.
Where to go
Chile is massively diverse in terms of landscape, so you're not short of options. The Atacama is clearly a big draw, full of crazy volcano peaks, 'Marscapes', and vast emptiness, not to mention the novelty of testing both mettle and metal at 4,000+ meters. Central Chile is home to the country’s vast wine regions, which butt up against some of the highest bits of the Andes. The southern part of 'mainland' Chile includes the fabulous lake district and what is easily one of the world’s greatest adventure roads, the Carretera Austral. Further south, you have the majesty of Torres del Paine national park and the vast frigid openness of Tierra del Fuego.